We were excited to take the train to Ghent and Antwerp from Amsterdam. The scenic train ride showed us verdant flat land dotted with traditional windmills and homes. Thousands of greenhouses lined the tracks—tulips in progress? We’ll never know for certain.
We arrived at the historic Antwerp Train Station prepared to drop our carry-on bags in a storage unit and head for a free walking tour of the city. Unfortunately, the storage units—yes, all of them—were not working. We weren’t willing to do a multi-hour walking tour toting our bags, even if they were small bags, so we walked down the street, had a great lunch in an outdoor café, took pictures of the lovely train station, and caught the next train for Ghent.
Upon our arrival in Ghent, we walked from the train station to our hotel in Ghent Old Town. (It was a long walk, but it was great to see so many of the backstreets of the city.) We stayed at the 1898 Post Hotel, which is situated in the city’s old post office. Our windows overlooked the magnificent St. Nicholas Church with its towering spire, one of the three outstanding spires for which Ghent is known. (The other two are St. Bavo’s Cathedral and the Belfry.) Of course, we had to hit the streets immediately to discover some of the many wonders of the city. One great thing about the old town is that it is car-free. You still have to watch for trams and bicycles, but at least one worry is off the list!
We discovered the modern Stadshal, which was built in 2012 in the square near the Belfry and St. Nicholas’ Church. The wooden and metal canopy stands in stark contrast to the historical buildings that surround it. (It came under criticism from many residents, but…) We enjoyed the evening simply walking down the nearby canal and exploring the small side streets.
We ate dinner at Pakhuis Restaurant which our hotel had recommended and, thankfully, made us reservations. The stunning restaurant, set in an old warehouse, has been updated to a striking building with excellent food and service. I would highly recommend a visit.
We started our next day at St. Bavo’s Cathedral. We had purchased tickets in advance to see the Ghent altarpiece, but we got so much more. We walked in during a traditional mass for students and were able to watch the children dancing, singing, and enjoying their worship. Afterwards, the tour began with a fun Augmented Reality self-guided portion explaining the history of the cathedral and the altarpiece.
When we finally arrived at the altarpiece, I was amazed by its beauty and size. (If you haven’t read and seen The Monuments Men, I would suggest you do so before going to the Cathedral. It is even more difficult to believe that the art is still in existence.)
After St. Bavo we joined a historical walking tour of the city. The tour gave us a good background for our visit and took us by the fascinating castle which we visited later in the day. The Gravensteen Castle has audio guides that provide one of the most entertaining recordings we have heard. The tongue-in-cheek guide lead us up and down steps and even into the 12th century dungeons for a fun and funny trip.
We also visited the Belfry, which was constructed in the 14th century. The Belfry highlights the importance of the textile industry in the development, power, and wealth of Ghent. (In the 1800s, the mayor of Ghent stole the plans for mechanical spinning mills and so Ghent became a prosperous textile manufacturer.) An elevator accesses part of the tower, but it was great fun to walk the remainder of the way up to see how the Belfry bell works, and we got to experience great views of the city.
We also saw the Werregarenstraat, a constantly changing official graffiti art gallery that anyone can adorn; artists are simply asked to respect excellent artwork.
We stopped at local frites (French fry) stores for lunches. We also enjoyed cafes and bars for Flemish stew and other local foods and beers.
Of course, our visit to Ghent would not have been complete without a canal cruise through the stone-stepped buildings that line the banks. The plentiful boats were easily accessible, and the cruise was a fun way to learn more about the city. (We do like discovering cities like Amsterdam and Brugges from the water as they were seen by many of the early visitors. Try a time near sunset to see the area at different times of day.)
We loved Ghent and would return for the laidback atmosphere. All too soon, our quick trip to Ghent was over and we were back on the train bound for Amsterdam and then homeward.
Follow our Viking River Cruise from Basel to Amsterdam by clicking here.
To see our info for our stay in Basel, Switzerland, click here.
For information about our day trip to Lucerne, click here.
Our Zurich experience is at this link.
For information about our time in Grindelwald and Bern, click here.
For info on our visit to Zermatt, Switzerland, click here.
Two Days in Amsterdam, click here.
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