Cartagena was our second stop in Colombia—and what a difference from Medellin! In addition to being only 6 feet above sea level as opposed to Medellin’s 5,000 feet, Medellin is nestled high in the Andes mountains with a recent history of drug cartels while Cartagena is a beach town with an ancient history of pirates and intrigue.
We stayed at the Hyatt Regency Cartagena which was located on the pristine beach. The hotel was beautiful, and service was excellent, but I still would prefer to stay in the Old Town whenever possible. We were able to explore the area with Carlos Valencia, our tour guide from Gate 1 Travel who did an excellent job of seeing things we might have missed on our own. (Other beaches are accessible by boat to nearby islands.)
Cartagena has a high percentage of diversity. Since the many indigenous groups had gold, the Spanish soldiers rapidly increased their presence in the area, always searching for El Dorado, the lost city of gold. Of course, where gold goes, pirates go, so the Spanish built a fort to protect the city from marauders. This progression continued as disease came to the indigenous people from the Spanish and the Portuguese, who also brought African slaves. Sephardic Jews also migrated to Cartagena to escape persecution in Europe. Every group that settled in Cartagena left an imprint and added to the diversity of the area.
Our first stop as a group was to the Fundación Italia Casa, a school that Gate 1 supports through its foundation. I am impressed by the many travel companies that are giving back to the people of the areas in which they work. This visit was a fun opportunity to see elementary children in their educational environment and learn some dances, such as the cumbia and salsa, from them.
The Castillo de San Felipe, our next stop, was built by the Spaniards in 1536 to protect from pirates—which may have actually included the English, Dutch, and French navies. (Remember: Who is called a “pirate” is in the eye of the beholder.) All the gold and jewels were brought to Cartagena and then sent by ship to Europe. The seven miles of walls were built to give protection from attacks whether by land or sea. The fortress was expanded in 1657 and again in 1763. Legend has it that in 1697, the Spanish fortress was attacked by the French. Spain had only minimal soldiers in the fort, so they gave weapons to their African slaves. This move didn’t help, and the French won; however, the French soldiers died of disease, so the Spanish got the fortress back and kept it until the British sent 20,000 soldiers to take possession of it. The story tells that the Spanish simply decided to give the fortress to the English rather than fight a senseless—and bloody—war.
We had lunch near the vibrant San Diego Plaza in the Old Town. Unfortunately, several restaurants didn’t open in time for us to enjoy them, so we ventured to the nearby La Serrezuela Mall and ate at what became one of our Colombian favorites, Crepes and Waffles. I know…the name does not sound Colombian. However, the chain was started by Colombian university students and has spread through much of the country. The food is delicious, service is good, and the wait is minimal—an important feature when you are on a tight schedule. Their crepes are delicious, the fruit drinks fantastic, and their ice cream creations luscious. La Serrezuela Mall is not your typical mall. It was originally built in 1893 as a magnificent theater and bullring and is worth exploring simply for the architecture.
Our walk later around Bolivar Square held surprises including the Palace of the Inquisition, a reminder that the power of the Catholic Church to persecute those they deemed heretics reached across the Atlantic Ocean during the Inquisition.
We resumed our tour of Cartagena in the early evening when the temperatures had gone down somewhat. (The only bad things about Cartagena are the heat and humidity.) In the evenings, the town is transformed into a bustling hive of activity. The Santo Domingo Square is the center of nightlife within the walled city. Street musicians were performing, ice cream vendors were hawking their wares, and people were out visiting and having fun.
Of course, we had to rub Botero’s Gertrude statue for good luck before moving on to Bolivar Square.
We also passed Sir Francis Drake’s house which can now be rented, if you are interested. (A note: All of the literature calls it the house of “pirate” Sir Francis Drake since the history of Cartagena was largely written by the Spanish, not the English.)
Our next visit was to Getsemani, one of my favorite places on our entire South American trip. We began our visit in Plaza de la Trinidad that had come alive during the evening with street vendors and street performers. The festive streets are decorated with banners, umbrellas, and amazing murals. Getsemani was originally for the lower class and became slums through the 1990s. Now the area is a vibrant reflection of the people who live there with lively nightlife and restaurants.
Unfortunately, the area may not be the same in the next 10 years as residents can no longer afford to live in the neighborhood and are slowly being forced to move. But for now, small grocery stores still sell local beers (Costeñita) and both residents and tourists flock to the nightclubs and bars to enjoy evenings. (Thank you to our wonderful guide, Carlos, who shared the stories of this area and helped us find some well-hidden gems.)
We were able to take a picture of the Palenqueras, a group of women who represent a long and sometimes difficult history. Descendants of African slaves, the women originally left their town of Palenque to sell produce in Cartagena. Now these women provide a tie to another part of Colombia’s history and offer to pose with tourists. (Make certain you tip them for their efforts. This is their job.)
We walked the short distance through the Parque Centenario to the old walled town. (We were disappointed that we couldn’t spot monkeys or sloths in the park, but it was already dark.) The Torre del Reloj (Clock Tower) is lit with constantly changing colored lights that guide tourists to the entry of the old town. We ate two dinners in Cartagena with reservations being a big help. Dinners at Alma and Donjuan were both delicious and very different.
Speaking of food…I love ceviche and probably ate it at least once a day while in Colombia, Ecuador, and Peru. It was excellent every time.
Note about Cartagena: Uber is available, but it is not legal, and drivers cannot always go where you want to go because of police presence. Taxis are also very reasonable and a good option.
I would love to return to Cartagena, especially to explore the Old Town but, as with almost every place we visit, we always leave with something remaining on our list. Then onward and upward, literally in altitude, to Bogota.
Our voyage on the Delfin 1 on the Amazon River is just a click away!
Our day in Lima, Peru is here.
For info about Quito and our short trip there, click here.
To read about our stay in Bogota, click here.
In the meantime, please click here for info on Cartagena.
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