To get from Tallinn, Estonia, to Helsinki, Finland, we took the amazing and humongous Megastar ferry. I have to admit that, originally, a two-hour ferry ride seemed very boring based on past experience. Our bus would drive on, we’d get out to watch Estonia disappear and, many minutes later, we’d see Finland appear. I was so wrong!
Think cruise ship versus rowboat. This ferry has it all—shopping, dining, drinking, slot machines, and more. The food looked wonderful—I only wished I had been hungry! Entertainment was available in some food areas. (Maybe the most surprising was the old country western music playing in one restaurant.) If visitors want to go on the decks, deck 9 allows for outdoor seating with a windbreak and an few unobstructed views. The two hours (50 miles) went very quickly.
You don’t want to deal with your bags? There are storage lockers. Want to sit and play cards? There are seats with tables between them. Don’t want to buy anything to eat and drink? It doesn’t matter. You can still sit in any area. With the ease and fun of this ferry, all visitors are required to do is sit, walk, drink, and enjoy the views.
We landed in Helsinki and, after lunch, went directly to our hotel, the Hotel Katajanokka where we were given a tour. Why did you need a tour of the hotel? No, it isn’t that large, but it is historical. In fact, it was built as a prison in the 1800s and served in that capacity until 2002. The building maintains the historic exterior but has definitely updated the cells into comfortable rooms. Be aware that there is no air conditioning, and some windows cannot be opened due to the historic nature of the building. It is close to the docks and in the Katajanokka area, but it is further from the downtown area. (The distance is still walkable with lots of fun places to stop along the way and the public transportation system is great. Once you buy and activate your ticket, you may never have to show it again but keep it handy at all times. If you don’t have it when asked, you will receive a hefty fine.)
A few interesting facts about the prison: Prisoners did dig a tunnel, but instead of leading to the outside, it linked the men’s and women’s housing. There was no running water, but there was a sauna for the guards. Thankfully, most prisoners were kept there for only 1-4 days. The prison cells had high windows so prisoners could see the sky and freedom and so want to better themselves. (This idea did not prove to be overly effective because many prisoners returned multiple times.)
Finland, unlike the three Baltic countries we had just left, was never occupied by the Soviets and is a Scandinavian country. Taxes are high, but taxes pay for a great deal including education and medicine. One of the most fascinating and amazing items supported by taxes is the Oodi Public Library, a must-stop during a visit. The library is an ode to opportunity, an ode to reading, and an ode to education. The first floors are interactive with self-check-in for books. Robots pick up the returned books and take them to their proper floor to be shelved by real people on the upper floors. Two other robots move furniture. Visitors can borrow musical instruments, make buttons, use a 3d printer, cut paper, make posters, utilize a kitchen area and more! There are cafes and chessboards for visitors as well as a recording studio and books in 19 languages. If you are new to the area and caught off guard by a snowstorm, you can even check out a snow shovel in this giant library/makerspace. People of all ages were there—reading newspapers, participating in children’s programs, playing games, having meetings, and so much more.
Helsinki is a relatively new city having been established in 1550 by the Swedish to compete with Tallinn as a port. Helsinki became the capital in 1812. This timing gives the city a large number of Art Nouveau buildings in the downtown area. The design district is fun whether for actual shopping or for window shopping. Three of the brands I was familiar with were Marimekko, Fiskars, and the adorable Moomins which are great gifts for kids or kids at heart. We enjoyed exploring the downtown area and near the multiple docks. I had never seen an icebreaker ship, 60% of which are produced in Finland. These massive ships are at anchor through the summer months as they ready for their winter’s tasks.
The largest Orthodox Church in Western Europe, the Uspenski Cathedral, was located just steps from our hotel and sits majestically overlooking the nearby landscape and docks. Other highlights included a visit to the Sibelius Academy, one of the largest music academies in Europe which has a beautiful performing arts center.
Another interesting place to walk through is the Art Nouveau Helsinki Central Train Station, which was designed by Eliel Saarinen who also designed the St. Louis Arch and Dulles Airport.
We also took the short ferry ride to Suomenlinna Island to wander around and see its fortress. The fortress was begun in 1748 under Sweden, but later fell under Russian rule, and then Finnish. It is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. A self-guided walking trail is marked in blue and the website for Suomenlinna Island allows you to see a video as if you are there.
Our final day our group visited a Swedish family farm that was established in the 1550s. (Sweden once owned Finland. Sweden is still the second language in Finland. The area near the farm used to be a majority of Swedish but has dropped to 27% because new people are moving in.) The current owners purchased the farm in 1912. The unusual stone barn dates to 1866 while the house was built in 1869. Side trips like this family visit are one of things that encourage us to keep taking tours.
Porvoo was our destination for the day. The town was already mentioned in the 1300s and was the site of a castle. The colorful wooden houses are from the 1700s and are laid out in medieval style. This charming town is the second oldest in Finland. The Porvoo Cathedral overlooks the town and the Porvoo River, the lifeblood of the city with deep red warehouses lining its banks.
The picturesque city has excellent restaurants and interesting shops lining its streets and the photo ops are amazing. (We ate an amazing lunch at Gabriel 1763.)
All too soon, we headed back to Helsinki for our last evening with new friends from our Overseas Adventure Travel group and wandering around Helsinki. I wish we had spent another few days in Finland, but there’s always next time!
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For our adventures in Klaipeda, Lithuania, click here.
To see our journey in Vilnius, Lithuania, click here.
For information about our stay in Riga, Latvia, click here.
Details about our stay in Tallinn, Estonia, are here.
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